A growing share of fences are built around wire, and for good reason. Wire has the physical properties a fence wants: tensile strength, ductility and the ability to bend without failing. It stretches across large areas cheaply and shapes into whatever a site needs. Here is how to think about wire fencing, from the metal itself to the four main types.
Aluminium vs steel wire
Not every metal makes good fencing wire. Aluminium and steel are the two common choices, each with its strengths. Aluminium is low-maintenance and easy to relocate: it does not rot, mould or need much care. Its trade-off is durability, as it is softer than steel. Steel costs more but earns it in harsh conditions, because it is far stronger and, properly treated, extremely long-lived.
Coatings and lifespan
Most fencing wire is coated to resist rust and corrosion. The common method is hot-dip galvanising, where steel wire is dipped in molten zinc at around 450 degrees Celsius to bond a protective zinc layer. Wire can also carry a green or black PVC coating over the galvanising for extra protection, which suits coastal and heavy-weather sites.
How long the wire lasts depends on how thick that zinc coating is, graded Class I, Class II and Class III. Class I is the thinnest with the shortest life; Class III is the thickest and lasts longest. As a rough guide, a nine-gauge wire with Class I coating may start rusting in 8 to 10 years, while the same wire with Class III coating holds off ageing for 15 to 20. It is worth asking which class you are getting, because it is the number that decides how long the fence stands.
Types of wire fencing
Chainwire fencing
Chainwire, also called chain link, cyclone fencing or chain mesh, is one of the most widely used fences in Australia. Galvanised steel wire is woven into an open diamond-mesh pattern. It is durable and low-maintenance, the galvanising holds off rust for years, and the open weave lets wind and weather pass through rather than loading the fence. It adapts to internal partitions, school and park perimeters, farm and animal enclosures, sports grounds, storage cages and temporary construction fencing. Its one weakness is privacy: being see-through, it is not the choice where you want a solid screen, where a modular wall or precast panel does better.
Barbed wire fencing
Barbed wire is two wires twisted into a cable with barbs coiled in at intervals, and it is a strong security and stock-control option. The threatening look alone deters trespassers, the barbs punish anyone who tries to climb, and it is nearly impossible to cut without special tools. It is often run along the top of a chainwire fence for added deterrence. See our guide to barbed wire fencing for where it suits and the rules that apply.
Electric fencing
A properly built electric fence runs live wire on insulated stakes, carrying a current strong enough to train animals away but not to harm them, which is why it is a farm staple for grazing stock. It uses less material than barbed wire and installs quickly, and it can extend the life of an ageing fence. The kit includes wire, an energiser, ground rods, insulators, corner strainers, braces, posts and gates. It comes down and goes up fast, which suits farmers expanding or rotating grazing.
Field fence
Field fence uses heavy 12-gauge wire with crimped joints to contain bigger livestock like hogs and cattle. It comes as hinge-joint knot, fixed-knot and woven field fence, each handling a different level of animal pressure. Our rural fencing guide covers the differences.
Choosing well
A good wire fence can last anywhere from 20 to 50 years depending on the material, the coating class and the quality of the build. Work back from the job: security, stock, boundary or screening, then match the wire type, gauge, coating and height to it. The first step is a fencer who can look at your site and tell you honestly which wire solution fits, rather than selling you the one they happen to stock.